Buying used? Check it first
The used market is the best way to build a great setup for little money — and the best way to buy a lemon. The difference is five minutes of inspection. This is the checklist we use, discipline by discipline. Don't know what size to hunt for yet? Start with the calculator. ¿Preferís leerla en español? Acá está la versión en castellano.
Golden rules (for everything)
1) Structural damage is never cheap to fix: delamination, exposed core or water inside are almost always deal-breakers. 2) Whatever spins gets replaced: bearings, wheels, grip and bushings are cheap consumables — bargaining chips, not deal-breakers. 3) Ask for close-up photos in daylight; if a listing hides the base or the edges, be suspicious. 4) Meet in person if you can: half of this checklist works by touch.
Used skateboard
| What to check | How | Verdict |
|---|---|---|
| Dead deck | Knock it with your knuckles: it should sound dry and lively, not dull | No pop = walk away |
| Pressure cracks | Look around the bolts and on the kicks, both sides | Cracks across plies = walk away |
| Delamination / water | Open plies or darkened wood at tips and edges | Walk away |
| Chips & razor tail | Tail eaten down to a sharp edge | Cosmetic: bargain |
| Trucks | Bent hanger (sight down from above), stripped kingpin thread | Bent = walk away; worn bushings = cheap |
| Wheels | Flat spots (vibrates when rolling), uneven cone wear | Consumable: bargain |
| Bearings | Spin each wheel: several seconds, no gritty sound | Consumable: bargain |
Used longboard & surfskate
Everything above applies, plus: deck flex (stand in the middle: it should spring back without creaking — a blown-out flex never comes back); surfskate systems (the Carver/YOW-style front truck shouldn't have dry lateral play or dead springs: turn it by hand and release, it should self-center quietly); drop-throughs: check for cracks around the cutout where the truck mounts — the classic weak point.
Used snowboard
| What to check | How | Verdict |
|---|---|---|
| Base | Deep gouges: if you see a different color or fiber, it reached the core | Core shot = walk away (or steal price) |
| Edges | Light rust polishes out; wavy, dented or missing edges don't | Wavy/missing = walk away |
| Live camber | Lay it on a flat floor: it must keep its arc (or its factory rocker) | Flattened = worn out |
| Delamination | Tips and tail: opening layers, bubbles under the topsheet | Walk away |
| Inserts | Stripped binding threads or loose/pulled inserts | Walk away |
| Bindings | Straps and ratchets without cracks, baseplate intact, discs complete | Straps = cheap spare; cracked base = no |
| Boots | Liners pack out ~half a size: try them with your riding sock; check sole and hooks | Packed-out liner = your heel will swim |
Used surfboard
| What to check | How | Verdict |
|---|---|---|
| Water inside | Abnormal weight, yellow/brown stains around dings, musty smell | Walk away: it keeps rotting |
| Open dings | Any crack through the glass lets water in | Sealed, well-repaired ding = OK; open = bargain hard |
| Sketchy repairs | Putty, drippy resin, giant cloudy patches | Wonder what they're hiding |
| Delamination | Soft bubbles when you press gently with a thumb (deck and bottom) | Small area = bargain; widespread = walk away |
| Fin boxes / plugs | Boxes firm, no cracks around them, no play | Cracked box = pricey repair |
| Even yellowing | Evenly yellow = old but possibly sound; local stains = water | Even: bargain; stains: walk away |
| Outline / rocker | Sight down the board from the nose: no twists, no asymmetric belly | Twisted = walk away |
FAQ
- Is buying used worth it?
- Yes, if you know what to inspect: gear loses value fast but degrades slowly when cared for. Rule out structural damage — everything else is a bargaining chip.
- How do I know if a surfboard took on water?
- Abnormal weight, yellow stains around dings, musty smell. A waterlogged board loses flotation and rots from the inside.
- What do I check first on a used snowboard?
- Base and edges: core shots and wavy or deeply rusted edges are deal-breakers. Then confirm it still holds its camber.
- How do I test used bearings?
- Spin each wheel by hand: several seconds, smooth, no gritty sound. If they sound bad, they're cheap to replace — bargain.
An inspection checklist based on common buying/repair practice. When in doubt about structural damage, walk away: there's always another sound board. And remember — this whole site is a guide, not gospel: nothing beats asking someone who truly knows, at your local shop or in the water.